Frames FAQ - All the details you want & more
Why do your frames have an added cost for glass and backing?
I began this venture as a woodworker, not a framer. I have learned a lot in a short time about meeting standards in the framing world. Still, I will not be handling glass cutting, and many serious collectors want archival quality glass. Also I know that everyone has different tastes in matting, so to provide all the options is a bit much for me.
Because my products are a very unique take on framing, I sell them with a base price for the frame. I am only adding on elements I feel comfortable offering at a professional level.
Currently I do not offer glass or custom matting.
However I do offer the option to add archival plexiglass.
Archival plexiglass? Do go on....
Certainly! The biggest threat to your artwork is sunlight. Even when not placed in direct sunlight, UV exposure does take a toll over time. That's why the archival glass "museum quality" standard is a 99% UV block.
And get this: that exists in plexiglass now. Not the standard Optix stuff you get at Lowe's. I used that for years for my own collection. But now I am re-framing all my own posters with Acrylite P-99 Non-Glare. This is the product I am offering, cut for my frames.
Many collectors will say that Archival Plexiglass are not just an equivalent option to traditional glass, but in many ways a BETTER option than traditional glass. Look into that yourself and if you are ready to try it out, I can get you started at a discount. Typically getting this quality acrylic with 99% UV block will cost you $70-80/sheet depending how many you buy. I am able to offer it as an addon, cut to size of the frame, for $40-55 depending on size.
This is an especially good option if you are framing a print unmatted, saving you a trip to the frame shop. (Unmatted prints should utilize spacers. There's a bit about that below.)
If you add archival plexiglass to your frame, that comes with an acid-free backing board cut to size. The only level above acid-free board I know of is a product that includes acid-neutralization, but that is only necessary for framing older collectibles. Modern poster stock is already acid free, and if not, blame a terrible printer!
So what else will I need if I add the fancy plexiglass option?
If your frame is going to fit an unmatted print, I suggest spacers. They keep your print from touching against the glass or acrylic (plexiglass.) You will see references in professional framing to "glazing." That just means the glass or acrylic. For most old school movie posters or photographs, there is not much risk in pressing your print up against the glazing because the finish is glossy and smooth. (The digital print timed variant of the Beacon Jams Pollock print is a gloss print, so spacers are not as crucial.) BUT! For screen printed or silkscreened concert posters, there is a flat matte finish that comes off as a fine dust. Matted prints keep the print from touching the glazing, but if you prefer the look without a mat border, that is what the spacers are for. Spacers are not visible if placed right.
Prints from Mondo, Alamo Drafthouse and Bottleneck Gallery are notorious for this sensitive finish
OK, so what exactly is a spacer and how do I get one?
Spacers are just square plastic rods that are attached to your glazing (glass or acrylic) that hold your print at a distance to keep from touching the glazing. They are available to be added to your Acrylite P-99 for $10. I will be stocking 1/8 inch spacers. Unless instructed otherwise, I will attach the spacer to the plexi here and ship it ready to go. Just to be clear, if you are matting your print, you do not need spacers.
But I want my print matted. Do you do that?
Not yet. However, the upcoming "Band's Gambit" frame for Dinner and a Rematch has some design constraints so it will be offered in one size only, accounting for an appropriate mat. I will be offering mats for this frame, done by a local frame shop. Since it is a black and white print, with a maple/walnut frame, a plain black or white mat will likely be best.
For the Beacon Blonde run, there are too many options for me to get into matting.
Future designs may offer an optional matting. They will also be outsourced to my local frame shop until I am set up to cut my own properly.
Alright, I got the frame, but I want to get the matting done at my frame shop. How do I know you cut the hole to a size they will use?
It's always smart to take a frame to your shop AFTER receiving it so they can work directly with it. BUT if you want to preorder a mat, and/or glass from your shop, this is how I will do the math on your mat.....
In the size option, the matted size is listed. I arrived at 1.5 inches for the 11x17 digital variant print, and 1.75 mat for the 15x22 prints, based on tables suggesting the ideal ratio for those sizes. Whenever I offer a frame that says "for matted print" the expected mat size will be indicated.
Your framing professional will cut your mat to overlap your print (so it doesn't fall through) by 1/8 inch all around. That reduced the dimension of your mat by 1/4 inch. So, a 15x22 print with a 1.75 inch mat is called a 18.5x22.5. But the true dimension, if the shop follows typical framing standards, will be 18.25x22.25 - Your mat, glaze and backer should all be cut to this dimension. This is the dimension I use when measuring for the back cutout of the frame. There will be just a hair of wiggle room around the frame cutout. If I provide your acrylic and backing board, I will cut to those dimensions.
That's the math I'm using based on conversation with a top framing pro who literally wrote the book on archival framing.
I was told there would be no math. This is all a bit much. What if I want to keep it super simple and make you the one stop shop for my frame?
I aim to please.
1. Order the frame in the print size.
2. Add the plexiglass option and the spacers.
3. Make sure to choose either keyhole or sawtooth mounts.
I will provide everything except the actual print.
What does "keyhole or sawtooth" mean?
That's an unreleased Page solo album, how do you not know that?
A keyhole slot is cut into the frame so that you can slide a single nail or screw into it after attaching to your wall. Your frame sits flush to the wall with this method.
Sawtooth mounts are metal pieces attached to the back of the frame and sit on nails or screws in your wall.
They are attached at the top edge.
If you don't like either option and prefer a wire across the back or some other hanging system, choose the blank option. You know what you are doing. But I must remind all customers that these frames are solid hardwoods, no cheap pasteboard material here. You should always drill a pilot hole in wood before trying to add eyehole screw or any other hardware, even with a tiny bore. If that is all greek to you, then pick one of the offered options. They're included in the price.
I love that Trey guitar frame! But I want to get one that's not for a Beacon Jams print. How does that work?
Preorder one and pick "custom size." I'll price it to the closest dimensions I already offer. Or if it is huge, give me some time to do an estimate. The largest sizes will fit the common 18x24 poster size. And a nice signed 8x10 in a mat will be about the size of the 11x17. So let me know just what you want to put in it.
Are you going to make other guitar themed frames?
I plan to eventually release an Ocelot tribute (koa). With the announcement of a new guitar today, there may be another tribute planned, especially for posters from the eventual tour where it will surely be debuted. Guitar themed frames will be made with genuine hardwoods and veneers, designed to capture the vibe of each instrument.
One or more of Mike's bass guitars may get the tribute frame treatment as well.
What about other band member instrument themes?
Stay tuned..... we're working on it.....
Where do you go when the lights go out?
I think that question was for someone named Harry.
What about other event or venue specific frames for specific prints?
That's how this whole thing got started, with the guitar on the Beacon Jams print inspiring the guitar themed frame. We have a lot of ideas germinating. We take time to see if the concept translates to a buildable frame, and to make sure that the design provides an artistic complement to the print, without detracting from or competing with the original art.
Who is this "we?" Did you multiply since the start of this FAQ?
Well, I'm a one man production shop for now, but the chessboard design and other upcoming designs are also co-created by Matthew Kator, a professional theater tech designer who is the biggest Phish fan I know. It was his one of a kind Christmas gift that sparked the establishment of Wood Weaver Designs. He saw the potential in my design right away and was off and running with more ideas. We have some seriously awesome concepts in the hopper. Stay tuned! Join the mailing list! Tag it! Bag it!
OK man, I dig these frames but they aren't cheap. Can I trade something?
My current Phish poster ISO list
Great Went (not smaller reprint)
Camden 2009 (full moon)
Watkins Glen 2011 (Ames race car)
Dinner and a Movie 2020
Sony PS5 - not a print, my kid made me ask (I mean, who knows, right?)